Having chooks in the backyard has so many advantages that it’s hard to list them all. 

They make great pets, provide us with amazing nutritious fresh eggs (tasting nothing like the store bought eggs), are an intrinsic part of any vegetable garden system and are just delightful creatures that brighten everyone’s day. Having said all of that if you have never had chickens before and are not well prepared then keeping them can become an arduous task.

So before you go out and buy your first chickens, think on the following and plan well.

Have you had chickens before? It’s best to start off simple. Try to avoid anything too fancy and choose easy care breeds which give good egg production and friendly nature.

Do you have any particular colours or breeds in mind? Sometimes one just falls in love with a breed when you see it and really that is a personal thing! So long as they are available and would suit your particular setup then you should look for the breeds you love. However a word of warning, many internet sources and books list breed traits that can be misleading! So take the advice of the breeder on temperament and their particular traits.

How many eggs does your family require a week? It’s no good buying only bantams and expecting enough eggs to feed a large family.

Is there a budget on spending? It is important to be aware that some breeds are priced highly simply because they are rare, are show quality, may be difficult to breed and/or are in high demand. Many breeders devote a lifetime to breeding quality birds at considerable cost to themselves. Don’t expect these breeders to part with their lovely birds cheaply. Without their commitment many heritage breeds would no longer exist in Australia. There are chicken breeds and crosses to suit every budget and if cost is an issue then go for crossbreeds or younger stock. 

Do you already have a coop? Is it a chicken tractor, a small wooden style or a walk in large coop and will you free-range all the time, occasionally or rarely? 

Some breeds would be quite happy in small chicken tractor where others require more freedom. It’s also worth considering the block size ie suburban block vs acreage available for free-ranging. 

If there are circumstances that prevent free-ranging such as space, garden constraints, over-zealous dogs or predators then you should not feel guilty, just ask advice on the breeds and numbers that would work for your situation. Try to give them some sort of run if possible and supplement with a good variety of greens. 

While the cheap online coop may look appealing in the beginning if you plan to add more hens you will soon become frustrated with the size as will the hens, overcrowding is not good for them for many reasons. Also many of these coops do not last long in the weather so end up being an expensive option. eBay and Gumtree, (if you are patient) can be a good way to buy a better quality coop for reasonable cost as can a bit of DIY with recycled materials. Just make sure it is predator proof. In areas with pythons use bird mesh. Foxes and dogs can easily dig under a fence so look at ways to deter this and do not underestimate their determination. The ideal predator-proof coop is a concrete floor and a solid structure with bird mesh so when locked in nothing can get to them.

Position of the coop is also very important. They need protecton from cold winds but plenty of ventilation and shade in the heat. In Australia, generally north-east facing is best but depending on trees and aspect you need to plan accordingly. The coop itself also needs shade even if just another layer of corrugated iron, shade cloth or tarp as they heat up quickly in hot weather. 

Cleaning the coop. When a coop smells it’s time to clean as there is a build up of manure and this can adversely affect the health of the chickens just like humans! Deep litter systems are wonderful as they provide months of healthy living before bedding needs changing and then provide already composted manure for the garden. Most coops are not set up for this but if you have the option it’s worth doing! 

Do you have a second housing option? Having a second housing option may sound extravagant but it gives you the freedom to bring later additions into the flock gradually thus avoid bullying issues, particularly if the new chickens are younger. It is also good for broody and sick hens. It can be as simple as a guinea pig cage, large bird cage or a segregated area off an existing coop with whatever materials are available.

Do you have other pets? Some dogs are well behaved and leave chooks alone but for many when left to their own devices the temptation is too great! Whether it’s your own dog, a neighbour’s dog or wild dogs please consider how you will manage them. It may mean that free ranging is only possible when you are home or the dog needs containing or that a fenced run is required. They are only following instinct so it is up to us to be aware.

Is it important to you that the chooks are friendly and easy to handle for children or yourself? Again research and take advice on this as there are breeds that are more friendly than others. Bantams make great pets and look gorgeous but lay limited eggs. There are breeds that lay large eggs that can be friendly too but not all! Favorelle crosses are a great friendly all round layer.

Thinking about rearing chicks? There is nothing as cute as a fluffy day old chick. They however require more commitment on your behalf as they need a heat source, dry bedding and medicated chick starter feed. If you don’t use mediated feed then cocci is a big risk that can cause death very quickly. It’s not hard but rearing chicks does need to be done correctly. The alternative is letting a broody hen rear them, this will require a separate run or coop until chicks are bigger.

What is pecking order? All chickens have a pecking order. This can be distressing to a first time chicken owner but it is the way of the chicken! There will always be a dominant girl and this will be most obvious when you try to bring a new bird into the flock. This bird will eat first, drink first, lay first and usually is the healthiest and probably the most productive. It may appear brutal but usually settles quickly. As mentioned before having a second housing option will help ease this as you can introduce new birds gradually. Younger birds or placid natured birds are more in danger of being bullied so never introduce one hen on its own if you can help it. Sometimes it is necessary to rehome a chicken who is a persistent bully but this is not common.

Are you aware of poultry health?

There are certain husbandry requirements to owning poultry and if you are aware you will avoid problems! It’s no different to owning a dog or cat. Prevention is better than cure.

Lice and mites: a dust bath area is imperative. Decide on treatment you will use and have on hand. Timber nests, roosts and straw are ideal hiding places for mites so treat these areas also with lime, diamataceous earth or your preferred treatment. 

Worms: Check regularly, dirty feathers around the vent is a sign and treat

Respiratory: Chickens can get colds or respiratory symptoms that are caused by exposure to wild birds or new birds, moldy dusty bedding, poor intestinal health or from anything that causes stress including overcrowding, dirty smelly coops, transport, mites/lice, worms, change in weather hot/cold and bullying from other chickens. Be careful of dusts for treating lice and mites as they are irritating to their respiratory system too. So be aware and act quickly if you see any sneezing, coughing, nasal discharge or rattly breathing. Most recover with some tender care or may need antibiotics from a vet. Separate the bird from the flock while unwell. These problems are of no danger to humans but practice good hygiene all the same. 

Pekin bantams, just one of the many colours.

Feed and water

Quality feed keeps hens healthy and give you more eggs! Speak to your local producer and decide which layer mash (grains) or pellets you will use. Mixed grain is not a complete feed as the protein is too low, 10% vs a quality layer mash which has 15-16% protein plus added vitamins, minerals and calcium. 

Feed should be available all day if you are not able to feed twice daily. Consider feeders that limit access by rodents or put feeder way at night. 

Chick starter:   0 to 6 week old chicks 

Pullet grower:  6 to16 week old pullets

Layer ration:   mature pullets over 16 weeks

Chooks love scraps but again they are not a complete feed so give only what they will eat each day and give a good mix of greens, fruits, bread, pasta or whatever you have! Again make sure there is none left for the rodents at night. 

Shell grit is also important for the hen to digest food and add calcium for egg shells. Make a separate dish and keep it full always as they will take what they need. 

Fresh cool water is also a necessity. If you are not able to change water daily look at making or buying a waterer designed to minimize slime and muck from chooks using nipples or lube cups. These also allow a greater storage of water. Apple cider vinegar is a great product to put in the water weekly as it helps to maintain a healthy gut, reduces slime build up in the waterer and is a general tonic for chickens. Do not use in hot weather. 

Be aware of where you buy food from

It’s always best to buy from a reputable produce store or a breeder who is willing to offer you after sales service and advice.

I miss our garden when it's not growing. At the end of our main season in November, I really feel like a break because I'm over watering, tending, harvesting and the rest of it. But then December, January and February come and go and I start missing the garden. I don't like paying high prices for inferior vegetables, I can never find anywhere near the freshness that we're used to and I start longing for the garden to be there again - fresh and available, right at our back door.

The time is right to plant again and the signs are already good. Our passionfruit vines are holding big juicy passions and we've had the best season ever for blueberries. I think it's going to be a good year in the garden. But things have changed out there. The chook house has been renovated and enlarged and that took a small area out of the garden. Hanno has put up a very strong climbing frame on the new chook wall and I expect that will help our vines grow during winter because the heat of the sun will hit the vines from both sides.

I started sowing seeds a few weeks ago and almost all of them are growing well, although the daikons didn't germinate and the granny's bonnets took 28 days to come up! That's a long time here, usually our seeds take only a few days when the days are so warm but like parsley, the granny's bonnets like to take their time. I have half a tray of curly kale because we grow for ourselves and the chickens. The more green vegies they eat, the darker yellow their yolks become. If you're a new gardener, I recommend curly kale to you. It's very hardy. They're at their best as a winter vegetable but will keep going in the heat as well. It's the best flavoured kale in our opinion and beats the dark kale hands down for versatility. This year, I'm trying Japanese spinach. Has anyone tried that? I've only sown six seeds at the moment because I have so many other leaves on the go, but I'm looking forward to test tasting it.

 Still growing in the garden now - pumpkin a few silverbeet and some beetroot.

And another bucket of lemons waiting to be juiced.

I have three types of tomato - our self sown large cherry tomato that comes up every year sure as eggs, the French Rouge de Marmande and Amish paste. The seeds collected from our flat leaf parsley have germinated well and I have about 50 plants now. I'll share those with Sunny when she comes home. I have a nice selection of Sugarloaf cabbage and mini cauliflowers, magenta silver beet, Warrigal greens, pak choi, cucumbers, sweet potato, potatoes, about fifty garlics from last year's crop, calendulas - for ointments and oil, sprouting broccoli, brown onions, and peas, beans and sweet peas will be planted as seeds, along with many other root vegetables, directly into the ground. I've taken cuttings from the elder tree and that will be planted when it's ready, we brought another passionfruit vine that will be planted on the new trellis and I have a two year old avocado, grown from a seed, ready to pot on. There is certainly plenty of work to be done.

We've been building up our supplies recently and every time Hanno goes to the produce store or hardware, he brings home bags of cow manure and sugar cane mulch. Yesterday afternoon, when I took my photos, he'd just finished planting the kumquat tree that Shane and Sarndra gave us. Now I just have to wait for the other beds to be prepared and then planting will start. Once again, we'll be set up here to provide ourselves with plenty of fresh food. It makes me feel good to be alive.

We're both excited about the possibilities this growing season is presenting us with. We both have a new leash on life and feel thankful that we can do this work and provide for ourselves. It's going to be a good year here at the Hetzel homestead. What are your plans for the garden this year?

Yesterday I wrote about the inside work done in permaculture zones. Today we're focusing on the principles of permaculture and how they might apply in your home in addition to your outdoor area and gardens.

The 12 principles of permaculture:

1. Observe and interact 
2. Catch and store energy 
3. Obtain a yield 
4. Apply self-regulation and accept feedback 
5. Use and value renewable resources and services 
6. Produce no waste 
7. Design from patterns to details 
8. Integrate rather than segregate 
9. Use small and slow solutions 
10. Use and value diversity 
11. Use edges and value the marginal 
12. Creatively use and respond to change 

I'm not going to write about how we apply every one of these principles here because I want everyone to think about it themselves, and maybe tell me how they could work in your home. But I will write about a couple of them to give you the general idea. You'll see that a few of them are self-evident, some will need a bit of thinking, but that's why this is helpful - it gives you different ways of looking at your work and how to remain productive in your home. Just remember that one of the interesting concepts of permaculture is that one zone, idea, action, method or principle often has multiple outcomes over several other areas. So when you apply these principles to your home, you'll probably find that one principle relates to one or two others.

For example, catch and store energy marries up with obtain a yield in my home because we have solar panels for electricity and hot water. Self regulation feeds into this too because we had to train ourselves to turn off light switches and when buying new appliances, to buy energy efficient products that cost more up front but save money and energy over a long period of time. Of the moment cash savings are often overshadowed by long term savings, fewer products being bought and less white goods waste.


Observe and interact
This is the easy one. Observation and taking time are the keys here. It requires us to not operate on automatic pilot but to be mindful, to observe and take in what we're doing in our daily work, change what we can to make our home a more productive place and to simplify our work practices. We interact with each other, discuss problems, come up with combined solutions, and, when they spend time with us, invite our grandchildren to help with the simple tasks. This interaction with Alex and Jamie taps into principles 3, 5, 8, 9, 10 and 12.

Catch and store energy
This incorporates the obvious solar panels on our roof that catch solar energy and produce hot water and electricity to use in our home but it also applies in other areas too. The jams, chutneys and sauces in the stockpile cupboard that have been produced from the garden produce out back, prepared and stored in such a way that all the energy that went into the growing of that food, is captured and stored for our use later in the year when those foods are no longer available.

Integrate rather than segregate 

This is an important principle here because for me, it deals with the family and how we all work together. Our aim has been to bring our family into the way we live - even though they don't live here and we don't expect them to do what we're doing. It is enough for us that while they're here, they respect our lifestyle, help us when they can and do not want to separate themselves from what is considered to be an unusual life. When our grandchildren are here, we show them how to plant seeds, how to pick fruit and to collect eggs. We integrate them into our living systems to slowly teach them these life skills and to help them understand us.  All our children love eating the foods we grow and share with them. They all eagerly take our home produce when it's offered to them and in that way, even though they don't live here, they show that support and become part of our home on their visits.

Last weekend, we were asked to look after Alex while Shane and Sarndra went to a concert in Brisbane. Of course we jumped at the chance to have our grandson stay over night. We had a wonderful time together and even though they didn't have to, by way of saying thank you, Shane and Sarndra bought us a kumquat tree to add to our orchard. That showed me they understand our productivity ethic, and they are part of it through that understanding. While he was here, Alex ate what was here, he integrated seamlessly into our home and we didn't have to go out and buy special food just for him. It was a real pleasure to see him standing at the blueberry bushes eating the berries he picked. While he was here, he was part of what we've created and I hope as he grows, that will develop and he'll always feel part of it and want to spend time with us.


Design from pattern to details
This encourages you to step back for a moment, look at your work practices, study your patterns of work and to decide if they're working for you or against you. For instance, if the way you do your washing/laundry isn't resulting in clothes being clean and available when they're needed -  the overall pattern isn't functioning as it should. Instead of abandoning the washing altogether, you tweak the components of that pattern - where the clothes baskets are, who is responsible for loading the washing machine, is the washing machine working properly, what cleaning products are you using, how much do they cost, where are they stored etc. All these smaller components need to be looked at individually to see what the weak points are, and then changed to make a better and more efficient system. You modify or change the details to improve the pattern.

As I said, I had no intentions of deciphering these principles and how they may work in your home for you. My intention instead was to show you a few quick examples of how they might be applied in homes and have you think about the principles in your own home and see if applying all, or some of them, might help you understand and do your work. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this and I'd like to know if you think you can use permaculture, or part of it, to help you work in your own home.


And in keeping with the permaculture ethics of earth care, people care and fair share, I'm passing on some information that came by way of a comment yesterday. It might encourage you to get involved in a community project that needs support from like-minded folk.  malleepermaculture wrote:

Something that may be of interest, on this topic, to you and your readers, is a new Australian permaculture magazine that's going into print in the next few weeks. Pip Magazine is its name and it aims to help people build, connect, create, eat, grow, and nurture their way to a better life and better world. They are running a crowdfunding campaign in the spirit of the permaculture principle, "share the surplus". The campaign ends tomorrow so if you could maybe share the link in the comments or in a post, that will help them put together an Issue #2. 

Pip Magazine: pozible.com/domain/rd/pipmagazine